– Everyday life on the beach –
Here, “on the porch”, we often sit in the night – the moon has once again grown full and is already waning again – and have the huge black moths visiting us. Soundlessly, like magic, they appear in the dark and want to drink from our wine. They are almost as big as the palm of my hand. And it’s an eerie, bewitching feeling when the tiny wind they make with their wings touches you ever so softly like the wand of a sorceress.
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For a while Parvin cooked outside when it was so hot. She sometimes stood in a bucket full of water to stay cool. By now it has all mellowed out and it’s nice inside. In fact, it was down right cold this morning!
Both of us had several nasty health issues in the past weeks. None was serious enough to openly moan but bad enough to weigh on our mood quite a bit. After weeks of suffering cramps in my intestines and other mysterious symptoms I finally found out that I had worms.
Fortunately it’s easy to cure: Vermox. We had a most entertaining visit with an older doctor in town. With sparkling eyes and a great grin on his face he listened to the description of my symptoms. “Si, si, oxiuro!” he smirked. He looked at us and winked: “Creo que conoco Ustedes! – I’ve seen you in town”. He had some Bob Dylan music on playing in the radio. “Es de nuestra generation ! – That’s from our generation.” he said, pointing to the radio and grinning. Then he set out to explain the entire amazing life cycle of these worms – he didn’t speak a word of English – how they enter our body as tiny eggs through the nose, get into the lungs, then into the blood stream and ultimately as tiny worms into the digestion system, where they can cause all kinds of symptoms but are not really dangerous. The thing is that they do crawl out through the natural exit and lay eggs outside. He was enjoying our reactions to these elucidations immensely. His final verdict, together with the prescription, was: “ambos! – both of you!” As we are bed partners we both need the treatment. And he peered over his glasses and chuckled.
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The hotel over there at Ensenada Blanca is quickly taking shape. An eyesore; the first real big scar in this paradisiacal landscape. We saw it coming for years, even the locals don’t like it. Now the days are not far anymore when finally screaming jet boats will zoom around and people will trample the pristine little beaches collecting the last shells while absent-mindedly talking on the phone. Of course, we don’t have the slightest right to deny anybody else the fantastic experience to be here, but we not only know this place and its wonderful sensitivity, we also know the nature of our species, how ignorance and carelessness will change this paradise like it has ruined so many others. We are not in the position to complain; in a tragic way we actually are some of the trail blazers, however we are in the position to be sad, to see what others could not see. We still had the opportunity to learn and develop the ability for reverence and respect. The followers will come without the necessary time this takes, without the time we had, without the precious, precious experience to blend in without destroying it.
Pelicans hunting in front of our door while we have breakfast.
Klaus Baja – last week of November 2010